Issue 03: The fight over what goes in the box

Issue 03 — 28 August 2026


Last issue was about infrastructure arriving before the rules. This month the fight moved to content — what actually goes inside the passport, who gets to see it, and at what level of granularity. Meanwhile the nearest real deadline on your calendar has nothing to do with the ESPR at all. Five minutes, then back to work.


1. The deadline that isn’t a DPP deadline: 27 September.

From 27 September 2026, every seller of consumer goods in the EU must display the harmonised legal guarantee notice, online and in store. Separately, where a producer offers a durability guarantee that is free, covers the whole product and runs longer than two years, the seller must display the GARAN label at the point of sale. No grace period. Note where that obligation sits — the producer’s use of the label is permissive, the seller’s display duty is not. If you sell direct, you are both.

I am covering consumer law in a DPP brief for one reason. Strip GARAN back and it is a model-level identifier, plus a QR code, plus a durability claim, resolving to EU-hosted information, with legal consequences if the claim is wrong. That is the passport architecture in miniature — and the durability claim it carries is the same claim the JRC’s robustness requirement will formalise.

Operator takeaway: whoever signs off the GARAN number in September should be the same person who owns robustness data when the delegated act lands. Otherwise you build that evidence base twice. Full piece, including the artwork rules.


2. Retail’s lobby published its list of what to cut.

On 10 August EuroCommerce published two detailed position papers on the textile DPP and the apparel delegated act. The headline ask: model-level identification as the default, which is a direct attack on the batch-level elements of the JRC’s hybrid granularity model — the thing I flagged in Issue 01 as what breaks most PLM systems.

They want end-of-life information cut for lack of evidence that sorters and recyclers would use it, material information cut as duplicative of the Textile Labelling Regulation, organic content dropped as mandatory, and facility detail plus substance-of-concern specifics restricted to authorities only. They support robustness and recycled content — but as a class or a percentage, not as underlying test data. Underneath sits a structural argument that the DPP should carry compliance information, not compliance documentation.

One caution if you read the papers yourself: they cite CIRPASS-2 as supporting model-level feasibility, but a July survey of 48 members of CIRPASS-2’s own textile working group backed item-level identifiers. Same project, opposite conclusions in circulation.

Operator takeaway: don’t design to a lobby filing. Do use it as a friction map — build now for what nobody is contesting, keep your identifier scheme flexible on granularity, and don’t fund end-of-life data collection yet. Full analysis with the tier-by-tier table.


3. The recycled-content proposal that moves ESPR out of your department.

This one deserves separating out, because it changes who owns the problem.

EuroCommerce proposes the first ecodesign performance requirement be a recycled-content minimum calculated as an aggregated average across all products the operator places on the global market — total weight of recycled fibres divided by total weight of fibres — borrowing the method used under the Single-Use Plastics Directive. Verification, they suggest, via the limited assurance process already established under the CSRD.

Read that again with an org chart in your hand. A per-product requirement is a product problem: PLM, tech packs, supplier declarations, sitting with sourcing and compliance. A portfolio-average requirement measured at company level and assured by your CSRD auditor is a group reporting problem. Same regulation, completely different owner, completely different systems, completely different evidence trail.

It also creates an incentive I have not seen discussed publicly. Under a portfolio average, the cheapest route to compliance is to concentrate recycled fibre wherever it is technically easiest and leave the rest of the range alone. That may well maximise total recycled tonnage, which is the stated aim. It also means “compliant” tells a consumer nothing whatsoever about the garment in their hands.

Operator takeaway: if you are building a recycled-content data capability right now, ask whether it can report at both product and consolidated group level. If it can only do one, you have made a bet on an open question.


4. Shorter signals.

The Registry rulebook is in force. Implementing Regulation (EU) 2026/1778 took effect on 6 August. Before registering anything you must be a verified economic operator, which in practice means a qualified electronic seal under eIDAS, valid a maximum of three years. It is a procurement task, not an IT one, and it has no product-category deadline — which makes it the one DPP job genuinely worth doing in 2026. Also worth knowing: the Registry’s automated check on submission tests structure and completeness only, and is explicitly not proof of compliance. Expect that distinction to get blurred in vendor decks. More.

A fabric-level pilot went live. World Collective, Denim Deal and Green Story put passports on three denim fabrics from one Indian mill, so a supplier structures data once instead of once per customer. Right target — supplier duplication, not brand software — but fabrics are out of scope of the textile DPP, and fabric-to-garment chain of custody remains unsolved. More.

Two standards still to land. Six DPP standards were published by CEN-CENELEC in May and cited as harmonised in the Official Journal on 15 July, via Commission Implementing Decision (EU) 2026/1736. The final two of the eight the Commission requested — covering access rights and IT security, and data authentication and integrity — closed their formal vote in July and are expected to publish around September.


Do this before the next issue

One question, one email, to whoever runs group finance or company secretarial: do we already hold a qualified electronic seal anywhere in the group?

If yes, your first piece of DPP infrastructure already exists and is sitting in another department. If no, you have just started a procurement with weeks of lead time and no deadline pressure — which is the best possible condition to start one in.


DPP Signal lands every other Friday. If a specific clause, deadline, or supplier-data problem is keeping you up, reply — the questions readers send shape what gets covered, and the hard ones tend to be the ones everyone else is also quietly stuck on.

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